and then life happens...

Sorry that updates have been slow folks.  There's a lot happening this week, and my plans for the rest of my trip are up in the air.

My grandma passed away a couple of days ago.  She's been sick for a very long time, so we knew it would be soon, however, it all happened unexpectedly.  It's crazy how I actually ended up being the closest (distance-wise) to her from my family.  At this time, my dad and aunts/uncles have arrived from the States as well as other family I didn't even know about from all over Mexico so there's a kind of family reunion happening.  I've slept about 2 hours in the past couple of days, so that doesn't help either.  While I'm glad to see my family (I wasn't planning on seeing them anytime soon) it's unfortunate that it has to be in these circumstances.

Yesterday also marks three months since one of my students passed away.  Three months.  It's so hard to believe still.   Not a day goes by where I don't think about him and about the impact he left on his friends and family.  Grieving is such a painful process and it hits in waves, which makes it so much harder.  I took this trip knowing that I needed to take some time away and to take my mind off of things, but those feelings of sadness and worry are always present in the background. It made me really happy to see that my former students were planning to spend the day together to remember Paul and be there for each other.  I'm very proud of how they take care of each other and I'm so lucky that I get to witness that because it reminds me to stay up. 

Good things are happening, too, and I have to remind myself to focus on those.  I've got a couple trips planned this weekend (pyramids and hot springs), I start a Spanish class soon where I'll get to meet other world travelers (not that Mexicans are hard to get to know ;), and my dad is getting married!  I've been getting to know his fiancee this entire time and while not necessary, I definitely approve! 

I've learned a lot, but the most important thing I've learned first-hand in the past few days is that life just happens.  We never know what it has planned and it's plans will always trump ours, but our experience will always be shaped by how we react to those plans.  My dad is really an amazing example of how there's always something positive to think about and when that something is hard to find, then make it happen.  So that is what I'll try to do. 

Mexico City in the morning from my window.

Museo de Mexico y Palacio Nacional

I'm hella tired, but really content right now.  I just spent the weekend in a beautiful subtropical port city, Veracruz, but the bus ride home was really tiring.  I'm about 3 days behind on posts but I'll try to catch up today starting with my Friday adventures.  We had planned to leave by 3 pm to Veracruz (it's about a 5.5 hour bus ride from Mexico City) so I had to pack as much Mexico City sights as I could in the morning and early afternoon.  Since there's so so much to see I actually only got to two places:  Museo de Mexico (Museum of Mexico) and Palacio Nacional (National Palace).  The first museum I went to was in a part of the city I hadn't been able to visit until then and I got lost for a bit, although not before I took some pictures:

This plaza is right above the metro stop Pino Suarez.  It was shocking to walk up the stairs and find myself right in the middle of a huge marketplace.

The tents made it feel like I was inside an orange.  People were selling everything from sopes and tamales to bras and whistles.  I wonder how many Mexicans actually get there underwear from markets like these...

La Ciudad es Bella (The city is beautiful)

These candles bring back so many childhood memories of when my parents would force me to attend this five hour Catholic mass and then stay another hour afterward to pray and light these candles.

Yes, another church.  They're just so pretty and peaceful. Aaaand they provide a safe space to look at my guide book and map without drawing too much attention to myself...

Just in case the main seating area is not peaceful enough, there's a separate room to pray exclusively to the Virgin Mary, also elaborately designed.

Jesus' hospital.  The line was hella long.

Moctezuma Xocoyotzin, ruled the city of Tenochtitlan, the ruins on which Mexico City now lies.

I finally made it to el Museo de Mexico, which had really eye-opening contemporary art exhibits on the role of capitalism in the country. Topics from race to oil consumption to corporate marketing were popular focal points in the pieces.  Again, I realized that the same things we worry about in the states (read: those pointed out during Occupy) are at the forefront of Mexican minds as well, especially among the intellectuals who reside mostly in urban areas of the country. The first exhibit was by the artist Beatriz Zamora titled El Negro.*  These pieces were all mixed media and were basically just panels painted black and they varied by the type of media that was used to create texture.  The artist was attempting to show the diversity and beauty of just a color and she succeeded.  It's hard to capture how mesmerizing some of these panels were in pictures but here are some. 

Starry sky

This is adorable.  Leonardo (11 years old) left a note for the artist:  "The exhibition showed me the beauty of one color, yes the color black could demonstrate beauty that could never compare...I liked everything that sparkles a lot".

The middle piece on the far wall was a heart shape made of wood pieces.

The second piece on the left used some sort of acrylic to create texture and made the color shiny.

*what I've learned:  racial terms, such as negro, moreno, chino, indio... are actually not meant to be offensive here but just a way of describing people.  To me, it doesn't sound right and I don't think I'd ever be comfortable using them, but it's really interesting to hear people talk about race here. Obviously, the lighter skin, eyes, and hair that one has the better treatment they receive (although they also assume it means more money), but in general, physical descriptions are just that without any judgment behind them. I'm sure there are exceptions, though.

The second exhibition was by contemporary Mexican artist, Minerva Cuevas.  The pieces spanned about 30 years and demonstrate the effects of capitalism on Mexican life.

This is the original head of the "Angel of Independence" lying at the bottom of a black flag.  Notice the symbolism here ;)

Egalite is French for equality and it is written on the label of every water bottle (also on a familiar brand).  So, it is more than advisable to NOT drink tap water in Mexico.  Therefore, Mexicans have to buy filtered water which costs about $1.50 for one of those huge jugs you see on water coolers.  A liter wattle bottle from a grocery store costs around 50 cents.  Coming from the states that's actually quite a bargain, but Mexicans are furious that they have to even pay for something they should get for free. 

The company Del Monte has been exploiting local pueblos by taking over the fertile land of the people and forcing citizens to work their own land for the company.  Since the company controls the majority of fruit and vegetable exports in the country, the towns and their people are left either without the food that comes from their own land or they end up having to buy it back from the company.

The city smells of a combination of smoke, exhaust and food.  It's pretty great...

My second stop was the Palacio Nacional which is the political center of the city. This is where serious business gets done.  The palace is enormous and like most things in this city is also very very old.  They recently constructed another wing where visitors are not allowed, but the majority of the palace is home to famous Mexican art pieces (both modern and indigenous) and museums showcasing the history of Mexican politics, such as the Constitution, Declaration of Independence, Mexico's most beloved president, Benito Juarez, and restored artifacts and personal belongings of those that fought in war. 

The famous bell that stands above the entrance.

One of 3 walls documenting the history of the Mexico city starting with the Aztecs until now.

Karl Marx <3

The military guards every entrance and exit, but they also just stand around socializing and getting their shoes shined.

Benito Juarez, famous Mexican president who came from an indigenous background and secured Mexico's independence against European forces.

The Juarez bedroom...

On May 5, 1862, Mexicans defeated the French during this battle in Puebla despite very low odds...I mean come on, it's the French (I'm pretty sure they have the best track record with winning battles).  While it's celebrated pretty heavily in the States it's actually a minor cause for celebration nowadays here.  It really serves as a reminder of Mexican pride and freedom.  It's really got nothing on Mexican Independence day, though, on September 16th.  Actually, not even July 4th can compare to how Mexicans celebrate their Independence.

Well, that really took about 5 hours of my day to get through.  Afterward, I boarded a bus toward Veracruz.  There's so much I haven't talked about and so many pictures that are not on here.  I might use flickr or some kind of photo sharing site to upload all the pictures I've taken.  I'll be working on a post on my weekend in Veracruz today.  I decided to take the day off from being a tourist and just relax.  Can I just say that the coffee here is amazing!  How am I every going to go back???  I've been in Mexico for a week now, but it really does feel more like a month.  I am really happy I decided to take this adventure and I'm so excited for everything I have left to see and learn.  I hope you're enjoying these (very long) blog updates :)  Check back soon!

Extras:

Protest outside of the Supreme Court.  They were deciding whether or not to distribute retirement funds and there were a bunch of very upset older people outside the gates and others that were handing out phone numbers so that they could call and demand their money!

The world is indebted to Mexico for corn, beans, tabacco, cacao, cotton...

That would be a dead lizard providing incense for some soul-cleaning.

Being a Full Time Tourist

Today I did what any normal tourist would do:  Take a four hour bus tour.  I'm actually really glad I did even though it was sooooooooooo long.  It was the first time I had ever gotten a complete view of all that Mexico City has to offer, and after the tour I'm actually worried I'm not going to be able to get to everything before I go back home!  There are so many parts of Mexico to see and explore.  There's downtown, Chapultepec (which is divided into three parts, each with a recommended visit time of at least 2 days), the Alameda, Zona Rosa, la Reforma (which also contains several parts), and really the list goes on forever...I mean the bus tour took four hours and that was just three-fourths of the city!  There's another bus tour that takes a southbound route, which I will definitely be taking next week.  So, without further ado here are few pictures I took on the tour (I was busy being awed!)

Auditorio Nacional

hehe...the Mexican version of the 'big drop' in Great America.  Complete with Pepsi advertising at the top.

Yes, I am indeed in Mexico :)

Pyramid-inspired modern architecture

Monumento a la Independencia (Monument of Independence)

Monumento a la Revolucion (Monument of the Revolution)

I actually don't remember this place...

Fancy Post Office

 Random pictures I took:

 

I had dinner at Cafe Tacuba in the centro historico, or city center.  This was actually the place where Diego Rivera had his wedding feast.  The restaurant is beautiful.  It has vaulted ceilings, murals and stained glass.  The food was fantastic, too.

While I want to comment on Mexican politics, I'm actually too tired right now to make any sense so I'll leave that discussion for later (Mexicans will be voting for their next president on July 1st).  There's a lot of propaganda plastered all over the city;  some of it is very interesting.  I mention it because on the bus tour we passed a park under construction and surrounding the park was this fence. On the fence was written a bunch of political graffiti that demonstrated the discontent and distrust with government.  Things like 'civil disobedience' and 'does your vote really matter?' were written all over. 

This will be my last post until Sunday since I'll be going to Veracruz to enjoy some more Mexican history and beaches!!!  Expect lots of pretty pictures when I get back :)

Where I'll be this weekend:

Academia, Art, & Coyotes

Wow. What a day.  It actually feels like it was 3 days in one.  I need to slow down otherwise I'll burnout by the end of the week!

I started off the day in Ciudad Universitaria, which just means University City.  The name says it all, really.  The Universidad Nacional Autonoma de Mexico, or UNAM for short, is HUGE.  Even though I spent all day there I probably only got to see a fraction of university.  The university has about 100,000 students, which makes it the largest university in North America (it is also the oldest!). 

I got the pleasure of auditing a course about social justice and Mexican-Americans.  The class I sat in was titled Chicanos y Identidad en EE.UU.  We watched a movie called "Walkout" about a group of high school students who became politically active when they got fed up with the inequalities they saw between East LA schools (i.e. Lincoln, Garfield) and those on the west side of the city.  They staged a walkout as a way of boycotting until the district agreed to institute changes, such as allowing Spanish to be spoken in school, prohibiting corporal punishment, providing Mexican food in the cafeteria, keeping the restrooms open for students all day, buying historically accurate and more recent texts...Pretty basic demands, yet it took days of violence to even get their voices heard. 

The film was really moving and afterward the class continued with a discussion of the various themes and motifs that we picked out.  The class was made up of mostly professors and all were born in Mexico (I was definitely the youngest, as always, and the least educated, which made for a very invigorating discussion to be a part of).  While there is too much to discuss about here, I will say that I was pleasantly surprised at how similar discussions can be regardless of where you find yourself in the world.  The reality of socioeconomic inequality is palpable everywhere we turn, and as this lecture pointed out to me, also has real consequences on our identity.  As a chicana myself I definitely experience the absence or lack of identity (I neither identify as American or Mexican, and Mexican-American just doesn't quite fit either), which means that I really end up losing the richness and meaning of my ancestors and their history.

Needless to say, my morning was educating and inspiring, not to mention filled with nice and intelligent people.  Oh, and I'll be taking a Spanish course while I'm here so I'll have more opportunities to keep exploring the university and audit some other classes.  Yes, I am a nerd.  Going to school while on vacation is most definitely my idea of fun ;)

And no post would be complete without food!

Shredded carrots, cucumbers, and jicama with chile & limon.  YUM!

A cafe/bistro type restaurant on campus.  I think it's called El Papilotl which explains all the butterflies on the wall.

OMG!  Best mole I've ever had! 

After lunch, I visited the Centro Cultural Universitario.  This is the cultural center of the university and contains a contemporary art museum, a couple theatres, a cinema, and a library.  The buildings are always busy showing films, plays, concerts, and art shows.  I could probably spend my seven weeks in Mexico just attending all their events.  Did I mention that most events are free to the public or never more than a couple bucks?  Because I couldn't decide and because I'm a sucker for art exhibits I decided to spend the afternoon in the contemporary art museum.

The building is beautiful and I was bummed it was raining so much that I couldn't take a picture of it.  Maybe next time. There were two major exhibits, but there was definitely a favorite.  The exhibition was called Extranjeros, or Foreigners.  All the pieces were meant to explore the different aspects one encounters when he or she enters a new environment.  This can be thought of very broadly.  It could literally mean when someone migrates to a different country or it could simply mean when one is finds him or herself in an unpredictable situation.  While all the pieces were amazing, here are a couple of my faves:

A Room of CDs

A comment on the role of music piracy in our generation.

You could literally pick off a CD from the wall and play it.

Mirror Box

This piece was a box made of mirrors with an image in the back.  In any direction you looked the image was repeated forever. 

After finishing the exhibit, I walked around enjoying the beautiful architecture and trying to plan a schedule to make sure I fit in all the shows before I leave.  When Veronica got off of work we hopped on the metro to another neighborhood known for its history museums, art galleries, and 'bohemian' street vendors:  Coyoacan.  The name means "Place of Coyotes" and if you missed that then the hundreds of coyote images and statues of coyotes scattered across the neighborhood would give you an idea ;)

My neighborhood itself is beautiful!  The centro is a huge picturesque park where street vendors line up to provide anything from tamales to jewelry.  It's kept really clean and the perimeter of the park is lined with cute little cafes, bars, and local restaurants. 

Again with the coyotes.  These two are directly in the center of the neighborhood.

Like I mentioned before, Mexicans are very Catholic and it doesn't take too long to spot the neighborhood church.  In Coyoacan, it was right next to the center.  While the church I saw yesterday (wow, it feels like a week ago) was beautiful, it had nothing on this one.  It's called Iglesia de San Juan Bautisa and it is a Dominican church built in 1528.  I learned that all Catholic churches are dedicated to a particular saint and churches will hold special events on specific days of the year dedicated to their saints.

Inside the church structure.

Magnificent.  The murals and sculptures are amazing and they line both the walls and ceilings.

 Since we didn't get to Coyoacan until around 7, we didn't have much time to visit all the sights.  In particular, I still want to visit La Casa Azul, the residence of Frida Kahlo and Diego Rivera, the Casa de Cortes, and the Museo Anahuacalli that was designed by Diego Rivera.  We also missed a lot of the vendors so I will definitely be coming back!  We did get a chance to have an elote though!  And if you were wondering, yes, yes it was amazingly delicious.

Extras:

"That my feet hurt and my hands.  What else could I possibly say?"-A mother responding to her son's question about how she dealt with the pain and the work after he left to America. This was part of a piece in the Extranjeros exhibit.

Whenever a saint answers a prayer, the person comes back to pin a thank you card and a token in appreciation.

Outside of the Museo Nacional de las Culturas Populares.  This piece was made by indigenous children.

The only exhibit open in the above mentioned museum was on the types of masks made by indigenous populations for their dancing rituals.  While I couldn't take pictures of the masks, take my word that they were beautiful/scary/elaborate works of art.  The sign translates to "Masks we see, expressions we don't know", which refers to the idea that people hide their real emotions behind a mask.

And the world's largest spider web, which looks like a giant dream catcher but I was told it isn't...